Travel like a foodie | thefidgetyfoodie

How to navigate a Polish milk bar

Posted on October 25, 2014 by thefidgetyfoodie

Walk around the cosmopolitan streets of a modern Polish city and the communist era is not immediately evident.

Until you step into a Polish milk bar (bar mleczny). Offering hearty meals to the masses, these cheap cafeterias thrived during the communist era and are still popular with students, pensioners and curious travellers. And apparantely the staff liked to yell at customers (soup nazi style).

Familijny milk bar in Warsaw

My equally curious friend Maz and I walked into Warsaw’s best known milk bar, Familijny, with empty bellies and a sense of excitement. It was a no frills affair, from the formica tables to the absence of any colour. Minimalist in the way only ex soviet bloc countries can be.

The extensive menu of Polish classics

We looked at the menu on the wall. 100% Polish. I can generally navigate a foreign menu, taking cues from the layout and the few words I know. We took a stab that zupa was soup and gulasz was goulash. After that we were stumped.

Diners eat quickly and quietly

So we decided to order something from each section and hope for the best. The most expensive dish was 7.5 zlotys (AUD$2.50/£1.50) so we weren’t exactly risking our life savings. This is what we ordered

1. bulka
2. zupa gzbowa
3. kurczak pieczony
4. gulasz miesny
5. nalesniki
6. kalafior

Our experimental meal at Familijny milk bar

Which turned out to be (clockwise from the top left) Read More

Wine harvest in Alsace

Posted on October 21, 2014 by thefidgetyfoodie

Alsace is my favourite region of France and in my eyes makes the best wine (no doubt Champagne and Bordeaux would have something to say about that).
The Alsace wine route runs from Strasbourg to Mulhouse and is full of quaint villages, medieval châteaux and dozens of wineries.

Dambach-La-Ville in Alsace

I’ve drunk my fare share of Alsatian wine (pass the Gewürztraminer please) but never participated in vendage or vintage; arguably the most important step in the entire wine making process. Pick the grapes at the wrong time and you’re doomed.

My friends Agathe and Manuel from Selestat knew this when they instructed me to get into the car one Saturday.

“We’re going to a winery” they said. “It’s the perfect season to pick grapes”.

Brilliant I thought. Gewürztraminer grapes as far as the eye can see!

Half an hour later we arrived in Dambach-La-Ville and pulled up at the Pierre Arnold winery.

Henry IV knew what he was talking about

Our hosts gave us a tour of the winery facilities, including the pressing room, the storage room and the tasting room. Sylvaner grapes were being pressed that day while giant oak barrels held a variety of wines is various stages of fermentation.

The large oak barrels had quotes written elegantly in French or Alsatian (the local dialect that blends French and German). My favourite quote was from Henry IV:

‘Bonne cuisine et bon vin, c’est le paradis sur terre’.

‘Good food and wine, it’s paradise on earth’. Agreed!

The barrels must be cleaned thoroughly to prevent tartar build up. At one point our host donned a waterproof suit and contorted his elongated form through the tiny trap door to give one particular barrel a good scrub.

At this point it was nearing 1pm which meant just one thing. Déjeuner! A hoard of hungry vendage workers had just arrived for their main meal of the day and it was time for us to sit down and join them.

Hungry vendage workers

I’ve always loved the devotion and energy that the French apply to their lunch. It is still common practice for people to stop everything and either return home to prepare a meal or enjoy a meal out of the office with colleagues. A sandwich at one’s desk would be unthinkable.

We joined the ravenous workers at a long table for a welcoming round of fromage frais on crusty bread and Pierre Arnold wine. Then my nose suddenly picked up a tangy, sour scent and I knew it could only mean one thing in these parts. Choucroute!!

Choucroute – definitely not a dish for vegetarians

Alsace’s most prolific dish includes piles of sauerkraut braised with various cuts of cured pork, juniper berries and boiled potatoes. Generous serves were accompanied by Dijon mustard, fresh bread and more wine. Read More

8 things you simply must eat in Iceland

Posted on October 15, 2014 by thefidgetyfoodie

Considering how isolated Iceland has been for most of its history, it´s no wonder the island´s tiny population (320,000!) has developed a unique cuisine based on whatever raw materials were available. Many traditional ingredients and dishes remain popular to this day and you would be crazy not to try these delicious delicacies when you go.

Skyr (pronounced skeer) is practically the national food and until recently was only available in Iceland. This high protein, low fat creation is technically a cheese, but looks and tastes like yoghurt and is delicious. It comes in a range of flavours and also in a drink form. My favourite flavour was vanilla but they are all tasty, you can´t go wrong. Skyr is available everywhere, even at the airport, which is handy for smuggling a few tubs home.

While staying on an Icelandic farm, the skyr came out for every meal. My adopted family often added cream or milk. Yes, it was a dairy overload but it somehow it worked!

Barbequed horse steak

Icelandic horses are revered for their beauty and strength (not to mention their unique ´five-gaits´) and have always been an essential prop of the economy. Eating horse meat has kept Icelanders from starvation over the years and it´s prized for its strong flavour. Throw a horse steak on the barbie if you get the chance! Read More