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Travel like a foodie

6 sugar highs I’ll never forget

Posted on October 30, 2014 by thefidgetyfoodie

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Get to the heart of a country’s sweet spot and I think you’re well on your way to understanding the very soul of those people. The Greek sweets I’ve grown up with often come drenched in honey syrup and sprinkled liberally with cinnamon. Well we are sweet and intense people are we not?!

I have an extraordinarily strong sweet tooth. And a very robust dessert stomach. Both come in handy when travelling and eating a disproportionate amount of sweet treats.

Here is a taster of some unforgettable sweet moments; memorable as much for their provenance as their deliciousness.

Hungarian Dobos Torte

Hungarian Dobos Torte

Dobos Torte: this Hungarian beauty was invented 130 years ago; that’s impressive staying power in the fickle world of dessert fads (take note cronuts). Five layers of sponge cake and chocolate buttercream are topped with a firm caramel glaze and crushed nuts. Patissier József Dobos pioneered the use of buttercream to extend the cake’s shelf life, a clever idea in the pre-refrigeration age. Pick up a slice from any patisserie or cafe throughout the country.

Europe's first liquid nitrogen ice cream parlour

Europe’s first liquid nitrogen ice cream parlour

Liquid nitrogen ice cream: cooking with liquid nitrogen is not exactly an age old technique but it has revolutionised ice cream production. Leading the charge is Chin Chin Labs, tucked away in London’s Camden markets. Pick your flavour and watch as the ice cream custard mixture is whipped into a frenzy with liquid nitrogen, delivering ridiculously smooth, dense and crystal-free ice cream to order. 

Saffron and seasame seed ice-cream with salty caramel sauce and pistachio crumbs

Saffron and seasame seed ice cream with salty caramel sauce and pistachio crumbs

A myriad of curious flavours rotates regularly; try tonka pineapple one week and pumpkin cheesecake the next. They also get creative with their toppings (white chocolate coated potato chips anyone?). 

Calissons in every colour

Calissons, almost too beautiful to eat (but not quite)

Calisson: you can’t take two steps in Provence without tripping over a display of these stunning beauties. Each one perfectly almond shaped, they are made from candied fruit paste and marzipan with a thin layer of royal icing. The flavours represent the beautiful produce and colours of southern France. My favourite place to buy them is La Cure Gourmande. Why L’Occitane hasn’t developed a calisson flavoured range is beyond me. Read More

How to navigate a Polish milk bar

Posted on October 25, 2014 by thefidgetyfoodie

Walk around the cosmopolitan streets of a modern Polish city and the communist era is not immediately evident.

Until you step into a Polish milk bar (bar mleczny). Offering hearty meals to the masses, these cheap cafeterias thrived during the communist era and are still popular with students, pensioners and curious travellers. And apparantely the staff liked to yell at customers (soup nazi style).

Familijny milk bar in Warsaw

Familijny milk bar in Warsaw

My equally curious friend Maz and I walked into Warsaw’s best known milk bar, Familijny, with empty bellies and a sense of excitement. It was a no frills affair, from the formica tables to the absence of any colour. Minimalist in the way only ex soviet bloc countries can be.

The extensive menu of Polish classics

The extensive menu of Polish classics

We looked at the menu on the wall. 100% Polish. I can generally navigate a foreign menu, taking cues from the layout and the few words I know. We took a stab that zupa was soup and gulasz was goulash. After that we were stumped.

Diners eat quickly and quietly

Diners eat quickly and quietly

So we decided to order something from each section and hope for the best. The most expensive dish was 7.5 zlotys (AUD$2.50/£1.50) so we weren’t exactly risking our life savings. This is what we ordered

1. bulka
2. zupa gzbowa
3. kurczak pieczony
4. gulasz miesny
5. nalesniki
6. kalafior

Our experimental meal at Familijny milk bar

Our experimental meal at Familijny milk bar

Which turned out to be (clockwise from the top left) Read More

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Wine harvest in Alsace

Posted on October 21, 2014 by thefidgetyfoodie

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Alsace is my favourite region of France and in my eyes makes the best wine (no doubt Champagne and Bordeaux would have something to say about that).
The Alsace wine route runs from Strasbourg to Mulhouse and is full of quaint villages, medieval châteaux and dozens of wineries.

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Dambach-La-Ville in Alsace

I’ve drunk my fare share of Alsatian wine (pass the Gewürztraminer please) but never participated in vendage or vintage; arguably the most important step in the entire wine making process. Pick the grapes at the wrong time and you’re doomed.

My friends Agathe and Manuel from Selestat knew this when they instructed me to get into the car one Saturday.

“We’re going to a winery” they said. “It’s the perfect season to pick grapes”.

Brilliant I thought. Gewürztraminer grapes as far as the eye can see!

Half an hour later we arrived in Dambach-La-Ville and pulled up at the Pierre Arnold winery.

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Henry IV knew what he was talking about

Our hosts gave us a tour of the winery facilities, including the pressing room, the storage room and the tasting room. Sylvaner grapes were being pressed that day while giant oak barrels held a variety of wines is various stages of fermentation.

The large oak barrels had quotes written elegantly in French or Alsatian (the local dialect that blends French and German). My favourite quote was from Henry IV:

‘Bonne cuisine et bon vin, c’est le paradis sur terre’.

‘Good food and wine, it’s paradise on earth’. Agreed!

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The barrels must be cleaned thoroughly to prevent tartar build up. At one point our host donned a waterproof suit and contorted his elongated form through the tiny trap door to give one particular barrel a good scrub.

At this point it was nearing 1pm which meant just one thing. Déjeuner! A hoard of hungry vendage workers had just arrived for their main meal of the day and it was time for us to sit down and join them.

Hungry vendage workers

Hungry vendage workers

I’ve always loved the devotion and energy that the French apply to their lunch. It is still common practice for people to stop everything and either return home to prepare a meal or enjoy a meal out of the office with colleagues. A sandwich at one’s desk would be unthinkable.

We joined the ravenous workers at a long table for a welcoming round of fromage frais on crusty bread and Pierre Arnold wine. Then my nose suddenly picked up a tangy, sour scent and I knew it could only mean one thing in these parts. Choucroute!!

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Choucroute – definitely not a dish for vegetarians

Alsace’s most prolific dish includes piles of sauerkraut braised with various cuts of cured pork, juniper berries and boiled potatoes. Generous serves were accompanied by Dijon mustard, fresh bread and more wine. Read More

8 things you simply must eat in Iceland

Posted on October 15, 2014 by thefidgetyfoodie

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Considering how isolated Iceland has been for most of its history, it´s no wonder the island´s tiny population (320,000!) has developed a unique cuisine based on whatever raw materials were available. Many traditional ingredients and dishes remain popular to this day and you would be crazy not to try these delicious delicacies when you go.

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Skyr (pronounced skeer) is practically the national food and until recently was only available in Iceland. This high protein, low fat creation is technically a cheese, but looks and tastes like yoghurt and is delicious. It comes in a range of flavours and also in a drink form. My favourite flavour was vanilla but they are all tasty, you can´t go wrong. Skyr is available everywhere, even at the airport, which is handy for smuggling a few tubs home.

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While staying on an Icelandic farm, the skyr came out for every meal. My adopted family often added cream or milk. Yes, it was a dairy overload but it somehow it worked!

Freshly grilled horse steak

Barbequed horse steak

Icelandic horses are revered for their beauty and strength (not to mention their unique ´five-gaits´) and have always been an essential prop of the economy. Eating horse meat has kept Icelanders from starvation over the years and it´s prized for its strong flavour. Throw a horse steak on the barbie if you get the chance! Read More

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